Sunday, July 17, 2011

Boutiques

Boutiques -- the Senegalese mini stores on every corner -- this tiny shop continues to surprise me with everything that fits inside.  You can buy everything from baby diapers to loofahs to jump ropes, flip flops, cookies and snacks, drinks and basics for cooking, phone credit, spices, cafe touba, bread, fake hair

Ever buy in detail?

-You can by 10F worth of butter (2 cents) -- although i usually splurge for 25F worth to butter my morning bread 
-Biscrème - 100F for 4 scrumptious cookies filled with chocolate goo
-Raini - Fruit drink with real pieces of fruit! My favorite is peach -- a little pricey at 350F
-Loofah in a wide range of colors (actually just a long piece of net)
-Hair starting at 500F
-Diego Chips -- pronounced sheeps here -- one is flavored ketchup, I don't buy this
-Nens (eggs) No refrigeration for eggs here, that's reserved for the drinks and yogurts
-Bag of water - 50F, just bite off the corner of the bag and satisfy your thirst
-Baking soda, baking powder, flour, spices -- all sold in little plastic bags on demand
-Phone credit -- wait for a promotion and get an extra 50%, makes it a little less painful when you have to pay by the minute and text
-Earrings - 300F great price, mine lasted about 2 days
-Thiakry - delicious yogurt with millet -- my family made this from scratch in Dakar but alas none here in Thiès so I have to get my fix from the boutique
-Natural Yogurt -- nice change from all the overly sugared meals, drinks, and treats here, especially good with fresh mango pieces

Friday, July 15, 2011

Its a zoo!

Time for a fun update on the animal life in Senegal.

I can still remember the first time I was heading to class in Dakar and had to wait for a herd of cattle to cross the street. Another time I found myself in a narrow alley with the same herd, trying not to make eye contact.

On my trip to Mar Lodj (an island in the delta region) 3 of us went running and came across a herd in a large open sand field --- its usually in your best interest to yield to the cattle. This includes large trucks too, although I have seen a cow come to the street and wait for traffic before crossing.

Sad thing is, lots of cattle but hardly any milk. We rely on powdered milk here.

You know its spring time when....
Huge; and I mean big fat momma pig with nine little piglets hiding from the rain on the side of the house. I think they came by to eat all the mango scraps and mom decided to take a break.

Have you ever seen a full grown pig run at full speed? I have and I think I laughed out loud. Little tiny legs and fat stomach, not very graceful.

And I don't like to stereotype but the pigs also like to hang out in the dirtiest mud pools that show up after the rains.

Lots of dogs and cats in the street. Back in the Dakar there was a cat that liked to sneak in the house and search through scraps from dinner.

Cockroaches. Enough said.

Chickens are also common in the streets but are definitely outnumbered by goats and sheep.
Did you know...
Goats tails stick straight up while sheeps' fall down?
And in a beauty contest here, the goats always win. The sheep aren't fluffy like you see in the story books.

Mosquitos are common and when they're not around during the day time, they're replaced by flies. Rainy season is less interesting now that the bugs have multiplied.

The equivalent of squirrels = lizards.

In the village the animals run wild like they do in town too but get tied up at the beginning of the planting season so they don't eat the new crops.

I saw a raven catch a chick. Momma hen tried to fly after the raven but wasn't quite fast enough.

There's some vultures too, usually see them around a dead carcass. surprise!

On the way to Kedougou for spring break we saw monkeys in the wild! Green monkeys with long tails. (they're not actually green)

Best gift of all....

Sharing in the Lord's work

When I started my internship with MIS, I told the director and his wife that I was grateful to work in the lab but was interested in seeing how the organization works as a whole. I've joined a mobile medical trip and helped with sponsored children in the village of Baback (see previous blogs).  And to add to this, France-Lise invited me to join the Peekshill Baptist Church on their 2 week missionary trip to the Fatick region of Senegal.

The Fatick region is mostly Serer, which compared to the Wolof ethnic group is more open to the gospel. The Serer are about 70% Muslim and 30% Catholic so the name of Jesus is more familiar. However despite the label of Muslim or Catholic, most of the people in the villages also follow animist practices. For example, confronted with an injury the person may visit a witch doctor, or multiple witch doctors to seek treatment. There is a fear of spirits as well; it is considered unsafe to leave your compound at sunset which is when the spirits are most active. There are also amulets worn for protection.

The team from Peekshill numbered 13 with 7 first-timers to Senegal. We stayed in a "guest house" in Niakhar one of the larger villages for 3 days at a time and left from there to visit the other villages that had been chosen by MIS for us to minister to. The group split and 2 and visited 2 different villages for three days each. Each time we started by meeting the chief and introducing ourselves and were often welcomed since we were coming in peace. We also met the local pastors who are the main workers for church planting. Some villages have churches built already and a growing congregation while others have cell groups -- a small group of Christians that meet together but don't have a church yet to worship in.

We usually arrive around 4pm after the midday nap and visit compounds. Some are very welcoming and offer chairs to sit on while others just exchange greetings and don't encourage conversation. When possible we shared the gospel and every night we set up a projector and showed a movie. We watched "Yatin" at least 5 times -- a movie about a small town where spirits are breaking up the families and causing fear, Pastor Philip moves to this town from the city to cast out the evil spirits and proclaim Christ. The graphics weren't what we're used to in the states but the movie really touched on the same issues and fears that people deal with here.

A very important aspect were the translators. We had 6 translators with us and since we all stayed at the same guesthouse we had the opportunity to get to know them and ask lots of questions about the Serer culture. I learned a lot about the Serer culture and how Christianity is viewed.

It was really interesting to see God working through the Peekshill team just in the short time that they were there. It really made an impression for us to come to the people and visit them personally. One woman mentioned that she liked Christians because they came to her and didn't ask for any money but brought peace. Alternately, to receive help from a religious figure or witch doctor, there's often a fee to pay.

Reactions to the message were varied, some accepted Christ, others thanked us for coming and sharing peace. Some agreed with us that Jesus was God but they prefer to stay Muslim or said they were too old to change. Some women would like to accept Christ but are forbidden by their husbands while other heads of households allow freedom of religion in their family.

Another blessing for me was being able to spend time with some Americans. We had a guitar and some good worship music, Bible study, card games, bananagrams and good conversations in the morning before heading out to the villages.

You can find pictures online -- the link below comes from the Peekshill team.
http://senegal2011.org/

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Protests in the capital



Last Thursday there were some riots in the capital outside of the National Assembly. The president of Senegal since 2000, Abdoulaye Wade who recently had his 85th birthday – proposed a change to the constitution. Currently, to be elected president in the first round of voting, the candidate must receive at least 50% of the votes. If no candidate wins 50% then there is a second round of voting between the two candidates with the most votes.  Wade proposed that a candidate could win with only 25% of the votes and also wanted to introduce the position of Vice President who would replace the president in the case of his death or anything preventing him from performing his job. These changes would make it very easy for Wade to be reelected with his son as VP. Wade is very unpopular but since the opposition is not united it would be possible for Wade to win 25% of the vote in the first round.

In response to this proposition, a large crowd gathered downtown. It was quickly dispersed by tear gas and there was some stone throwing. I believe there were a few deaths and injuries but a couple sources have said that the protest was nonviolent until the police tried to break it up. The president withdrew his proposition that same afternoon.

I was very excited to see that the Senegalese stood up against Wade.  It was also satisfying to see how quickly he withdrew in response to the crowds. For the last 5 years there have been power cuts. Here in Thiès we lose power about three times a day and recently the water pressure has declined. We are only able to take water when we have power so we fill up large bottles every day to last us through the power outages. Other Senegalese I have talked to are also happy about the results of the protest. One of the opposition groups plans to continue until Wade steps down from power. The next elections will be held in 2012.

Senegal has a reputation for being a very stable and peaceful country and the Senegalese are proud of this fact. However, they have been letting Wade steal money from them and buy property and build houses, buy planes and put his son Karim in power without making much protest. The change Wade proposed was the last straw. I’ll certainly be following the news, especially in the upcoming year as elections draw nearer. 

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Box

How my life has changed --- abridged version

What is normal? Normal is a relative term; Normal can be your best friend or an enemy depending on your ability to adapt to your surroundings.

Normal is not stopping the conversation when the power goes out because everyone expects it to happen.
     We lose power ~3times/day.  If I come home from work and have power, I can expect that we’ll lose it before dinnertime.

Normal is eating bread for breakfast every morning. Luckily I’ve made the switch from white “ghost” bread to millet bread – it lasts a little longer in my stomach. Too hot for tea, so I take a large glass of cold powdered milk.

Normal is slower. If I’m rushing it’ll probably take me longer to finish my task. I greet everyone at work and at the boutique, don’t ask to borrow the whiteout without asking about the person’s family, how he slept, and how work is going.

Normal is coming home from working and going straight to the mango tree. Pick a fresh mango and bite into it with your teeth. Try not to let the juice drip on your clothes because there’s no laundry machine, you may have to wait a week to have laundry done.

Normal is sweaty. Normal likes to take at least 2 showers a day.

Normal visits her friends’ Facebook pages when the power is on and she’s not exhausted and is surprised to see girls wearing shorts. Are those thighs? Normal feels exposed if she leaves the house showing her knees.

Normal has a hard time making to the gym but pays less than a dollar. Normal does not fit in at the gym but nevertheless has started lifting again and likes to wear giant red gloves on Talarta, Axames and Gawo. (Tuesday, Thursdays, and Saturdays)

Baback


 Today I left the lab early to go to one of the villages that MIS works with. I went with Yacine who works in the MIS office. Yacine works with churches to sponsor kids in the villages. Last week the two of us met to plan out activities to do with the 15 sponsored children. The children are sponsored by partner churches in the US and MIS plans activities and helps pay for school and health needs. Maxime, a high school student was also with us; he’s spending a week of ‘job experience’ with MIS. Our plans included having the kids act out scenarios, playing with some of the instruments we found, sharing some snacks and maybe some coloring to fill up the two hours we would spend in Baback, a village about an hour outside of Thiès.


 Plans had to change pretty quickly upon arriving in Baback. We stopped at the church, a small building with a pulpit and wooden benches. Next door, some women were learning how to sew and there was a tree in the corner of the yard where we set up a few of the benches in the shade. At 16h, when we started, there were already about 15 kids that weren’t sponsored and of course we weren’t going to send them away.



 By the time all of the sponsored kids showed up and we prayed together, our number had grown to 54 kids. Since we were outside and arrived in a 4x4 we drew a lot of attention and kids came to join us from all directions. We split into groups and gave some themes such as what happens if the fence breaks and animals get into the garden or a motorbike hits a kid in the street. This was mildly successful – the kids were really shy to start but with some guidance they were able to act out the scene and we got a few laughs out of it. 




Next was a game of tag, which ended with only 2 crying children out of 70 so I’d say it went pretty well.


Before breaking out the snacks we tried to sing a couple songs with the instruments we brought but again the kids were shy. We tried to get a couple of the guys to play the tambourine as a drum but couldn’t get anything started. I ended up singing some Wolof songs I remembered from my spring break trip. This also elicited a few laughs but unfortunately did not give anyone the courage to start singing.

Next challenge, feed 115 kids some pieces of cake and 15 mangos. Maybe this is what the disciples felt like when they wanted to feed 500. Managed to prevent a giant mob from forming which is a huge accomplishment in my opinion and the mangos ended up getting passed from hand to hand, sharing at its best.

What stuck me the most was the shyness, the lack of creativity. We suggested themes and tried to encourage the kids to make up a story, what would happen? Back in Dakar, one of the CIEE students started a program for girls called CIPFEM. The organization encouraged girls to become leaders, to be more confident. Talking with her and others that volunteered for CIPFEM revealed a similar theme; the girls were often searching for the ‘right answer’ when asked to draw something or play MadLibs rather than pretending and creating. I’m not sure why this is the case, one theory is that the school system doesn’t encourage creativity or critical thinking. I see students studying which means rereading notes word-by-word trying to memorize exactly what the teacher said in class. Also there seems to be a ‘right’ way to do many tasks here, which doesn’t leave much room for trying new ideas.

This has further confirmed the notion of community involvement. Of course it makes sense, the local population should be an active participant and when possible a leader of development projects. But when you’re there, in Baback trying to entertain 115 kids with 3 people, one of which speaks Serer (the local language) you realize the gravity of the term community involvement. Someone from the region, if not the village itself would be much better suited for this job – someone who knows the language, knows the songs to sing, the way to keep the kids attention. Training is definitely necessary but train someone that lives there, who is invested in the kids lives.  

Sunday, May 29, 2011

more than just peanuts

I've been pretty tired the last few days and very much annoyed with being called "toubab". Luckily I've found a few ways to combat the situation.

1. Drinking more water -- the heat here is sneaky, I don't realize I'm parched till I have to drink a whole 1.5L bottle. I'm in the air conditioned lab for most of the day (its for the good of the reactants) and when I'm handling blood, urine, or worse, I'm not likely to have a water bottle around to grab.

Number 2 and more interesting, I'm learning how to greet people first. Greeting here is so important -- walking down the street it is expected that you greet anyone you pass whether they're sitting by a tangana (senegal's own version of fast food) even if you don't know the person you're expected to say hello. So by greeting first, they're happy to see that I care enough to say hi and slightly impressed with my Wolof skills, making it easier to say no to invitations to sit down and talk with them.

3. Making jokes. Lots of jokes here, i could write another blog post about it but basically if I can manage to make a joke out of the situation then they're even more impressed and I can move on knowing that I wasn't a jerk for ignoring them and trying to just stay on my own path.

4. Old women selling peanuts on the street make great conversation partners. For example Racheol whom I met yesterday buying peanuts. I sat down to talk with her today and she offered some great advice. Of course she asked if I had a husband (no) and then if I wanted a Senegalese husband. She agreed with me that I should find a man that will help cook. Concerning the young men, she told me to stay away from the guys who are after me-- they will refuse to cook or clean and I need to own myself, protect myself "buroom" --if I understood correctly she was alluding to no sex. She was happy to hear that I wasn't looking for a boyfriend and called me her child. It was a wonderful conversation, we connected, we joked, she was like a mother. Of course I will be going back to sit with her again and munch on some fresh roasted peanuts.
 (*Disclaimer that not ALL the guys here are unsuitable to hang out with, I have made some good guy friends)
 

Conclusion -- avoiding conversations doesn't mean they won't start or I won't be asked to sit down and talk, on the other hand if I say the first words than its much easier to politely decline an invitation. More is less.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

starting anew

Recently packed up and moved to a new city -- left all my friends in Dakar and stepped into a new adventure in Thiès. I'm interning with MissionInter Senegal and have already spent a whole week here which is hard to believe.

Caution: If you don't like gross details you may want to skip this section.  I'm working in the lab -- with blood, urine and stool samples. I've learned how to do blood typing, test for malaria and salmonella, pregnancy, glucose, parasites, sickle cell and more. I'm a total nerd in the lab -- got really excited on thursday doing a test for sickle cell anemia because I could finally distinguish between red blood cells on their side versus sickle cells. What's most incredible to me is that what I'm working on comes from real patients -- these results go to doctors who will make decisions for treatment based on what I did.

While I love what I'm doing and am so excited to be putting some of my science skills to use I don't think I'd ever be happy working in a lab like this long term. I'm constantly asking myself or bothering the lab tech I work with what implications the results have, what the treatment will be. I'm feeling more and more convicted to become a doctor -- a decision I've been cautious about making.

On my day off I joined the surgical team to watch a C-section and hernia incision. Gotta say that I preferred the C-section -- so amazing to see a baby come into the world. I managed to help in a few minor ways -- I handed the PA some betadine and helped grab this giant band-aid to cover the sutures. Big stuff I know. Even cooler was helping to breath for the patient while the anesthesiologist was turning on the machine that breathes automatically. I'll be an expert in no time.

Plenty more to share but its bedtime. I plan on using my last half of the weekend to catch up on sleep, go to a new church (conveniently across the street), take down some notes from the week and try to finish a good book I just started.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

summer in Thies

big news: I'm staying in Senegal for ten more weeks.
unfortunately it doesn't fit in my budget to fly home for graduation (sorry to all my senior friends!) or to see the fam but I've found a great internship and am really excited for a whole new experience in Senegal.

I'll be working with MissionInter Senegal (MIS) a nondenominational private Senegalese organization that works in development and evangelism. I will be working at Hopital Barthimee in the lab - hematology, parasistology, and bacteriology. So fun right! I'll be learning the techniques to test for diseases here like sickle cell anemia, malaria and parasites. At the same time I'll be doing research on the epidemiology of these diseases in Senegal. But don't worry I won't spend all my time in the lab-- I'll also be able to accompany a mobile medical team to a rural village and visit daaras in Thies to raise medical awareness.  I'll be living with a new host family -- either French missionaries or a Senegalese family -- yet to be determined. A big thanks to DePauw for the Howes Grant which is financing this endeavor. Bigger thanks to God for leading me through the whole stressful process and opening doors.

From what my guidebook and Senegalese friends have told me, Thies is like a mini Dakar. There are still places to see some live music and a big tapestry museum(?) and of course markets. I'll definitely miss the beach and it will be a new experience to be away from the other 50 american students that are in this program. I'll also be leading research myself. I'm looking forward to going to one church over the summer -- I've tried many different churches since being in Senegal which has been a great experience but I miss having fellowship within one church community. Also looking forward to the chance to see how this branch of a Senegalese church works in terms of development and evangelism. Senegal is 90% Muslim so churches like this are rare. If you want to see more visit the website : http://www.missionintersenegal.org/

Random

Things I miss:
Cold milk from a cow, not powder
Taking naps and waking up 10 minutes before class starts
Why does Microsoft office dictionary only work with Internet connection?
Wifi internet everywhere
Cheese


Things I love here:
Fruit stands and boutiques on every corner
Half frozen papayas and mangos
Working out on the beach
Music during worship at church
I’ve finally learned how to eat all the meat off of the chicken bones
Millet in my yogurt
Fresh fish and oysters on the beach

Obama in Senegal:
Not only on cotton t-shirts but traditional fabric as well
Backpacks
Duffel bags
The “Obama cut” is offered at a nearby barbershop
Pencils
Obamania mints
On the back of a horse cart

Malnutrition Survey


Spent the weekend in the Fatick Zone – southeast of Dakar – with my public health class. In groups of four we conducted a malnutrition survey in a village and are now analyzing are results in preparation for our final presentation. It was definitely a nice ending to a semester spent learning about the health system in Senegal. Our survey consisted of a series of questions that could be possible explanations for malnutrition such as the number of children in the family, if the child is currently sick, and the education level of the parents.

In this area most speak Serer, another local language, but I was still able to put my Wolof skills to use to ask the questions. Even when the subjects spoke little Wolof, our translator would translate my Wolof questions into Serer. I really enjoyed being able to make that connection through Wolof and appreciated how we were welcomed despite that we were often interrupting the work being done. Having a translator work with us who is from the village was especially helpful as he also directed us through the community and introduced us to the families.

Our professor who also works for IRD: Research Institute for Development, gave us a tour of the compound in Niakhar, the small town where we spent the weekend.  There are multiple projects being conducted including a study financed by the CDC in Atlanta Georgia on a new flu vaccine and a study on meningitis. It was the first time I’ve spent time in a lab since classes back at DePauw. There are a few trucks financed by CDC and small huts where researchers can stay when they visit to perform research, as well as a central kitchen and offices. This observatory has been here for over 40 years and is really well established -- power outages are common but there are 4 back up systems to ensure that no data is lost. There was also a data protection vault that was added after 9/11 to protect the data in case of a disaster. It was a great opportunity to see a glimpse of where a study financed by CDC is performed.

 I really enjoyed asking questions and collecting data and the process of analyzing data is much more exciting when you collect it yourself. We found 7 malnourished children out of 19 (ages 1 to 3). Many of them had parasites while other factors may have been the large number kids in the family or the poor transition between breast feeding and eating solid food. While I don't think I'll go into a career in research I can use this experience to start thinking about a post-DePauw independent study/research project
What is the best way to spend your time when class is cancelled?
Watch an episode of House.
I'm not particularly attached to american tv shows but this was an extra special treat

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Mar Lodj




Was lucky enough to spend my weekend on a small island called Mar Lodj in the Sine Saloum Delta where the Saloum river meets the Atlantic ocean. The entire program traveled by bus to Ndangane where we took pirogues to the island of Mar Lodj. We were greeted by a French couple and quickly settled into our bungalows. All of our meals were delicious with fresh fish and shrimp caught just nearby our campement. Hammocks and a sandy beach were more than enough to encourage some genuine R&R.






Friday night we took a pirogue tour through the mangroves. The mangroves have been depleted since they’ve been used as fuel for cooking but there are several initiatives led by women’s groups to replant the mangroves. We saw quite a few species of birds at their nesting sight and some giant pelicans.  We returned home with the sun setting behind us and a three-course meal ahead. Fresh tomatoes and tapalapa – a heartier bread than the plain baguettes we’re used to, followed by cous-cous and chocolate cake to follow. Being used to simple meals in Dakar, the variety offered to us here was almost as wonderful as falling asleep in a hammock reading a good book.



Saturday morning I woke early to take a run across the island. I had a staring contest with a few cattle as they stood directly in our path. The ground was dry and cracked under my feet and the crisp wind greeted us as we doubled back. The landscape was much preferable to that of Dakar where I breathe in pollution and my land markers are buildings instead of a giant baobob tree. After breakfast the whole group – 52 students - took horse drawn carts around the island for a tour. It felt slightly uncomfortable and overly touristy to drive through villages on the carts. We took a brief stop to see the church and walk through a few streets but I much preferred the tour outside of the villages seeing the vast fields of sand spotted with trees and herds of cattle. I wondered how much the dry landscape must change during the rainy season. 






I filled my afternoon with some Frisbee, swimming and reading. After dinner was the main event, a wrestling match in the village nearby. They set up tarps in a big circle for crowd control and the ring was quickly filled with supporters. A group of drummers kept the rhythm and large speakers ensured everyone could hear the singer. There are many rituals surrounding wrestling and the whole ring was filled with wrestlers and their crewmembers warming up, drawing figures in the sand, and pouring specially prepared concoctions on themselves or around the rink. As opposed to the ring in the stadium in Dakar, which was neatly partitioned, this ring ended where the crowd began. The match was set up tournament style, single elimination and 2 or 3 pairs of wrestlers could be competing at a time. Before the semi finals, we were offered the chance to lutte (wrestle) each other. They helped us wrap the pagne properly and we paired off. I have had the chance to lutte against the kids that live next door and their tips helped me win the match against my opponents. It was really fun to watch some of the guys wrestle each other and realize how much more exciting the lutte would be if we new the wrestlers. The lutte is really popular in this region and they will quickly boast that unlike the lutte in Dakar, which can include some punching, this is authentic wrestling. It is the main form of entertainment and a tournament like this is held each month in a different village in the area.
On the way back to Dakar Sunday morning we stopped a large baobob, big enough to crawl inside. Outside the tree, vendors clamored for your attention while inside, bats fought for space to cling to the underbelly of the giant tree. Amazing but didn’t feel inclined to stay inside for too long. 

Monday, April 11, 2011

Food

For those of you who know me well it may be a surprise that I haven't talked about this topic sooner, but the time has come, as I am currently lounging in the living room in my mini wifi bubble that I found this weekend that is just strong enough to use my iPod.
Food:
ghost bread- the white baguettes that everyone eats for breakfast, void of any nutritional or taste value, I usually take mine with a banana and peanut butter and honey.

Sugar- another popular commodity, it us heaped into tea, coffee, and powdered milk. Triple the amount of sugar you would add and you might be close

powdered milk- popular alternative to real milk-- I can finally relate with my grandma when he talks about havig powdered milk as a kid

fried food- lots of tasty fried snacks are found in mini food stands or just on the side if the road, not sure how anyone makes money but I can get some delicious donuts for 25cfa each as well as fataya - dough with meat and onions inside, nems- like an egg roll. These shops also sell peas, sphaghetti, tuna stuff, and eggs which allake the ghost bread a litle less bland

lunch -- the largest meal of the day and unfortunately I spend it at school since I don't have time to go home at lunch time. Although it let's me vary my diet. Schmwarmas are my current fav

rice and fish -- I like the Senegalese dishes but I hve to admit I'm getting a little tired of rice and fish, and to think that I used to complain about having too much chicken.
Ceebu jen: national dish. Rice in tomato based sauce with fish and veggies- eggplant, cabbage, carrot, this root vegetable and another veggie I've never eaten. I will be learning to cook this soon so I'll actually know the names of the vegetables I eat.
Onions are everywhere
mafe- another fav dish this one has a peanut based sauce
cous cous: it's always an exciting night when we get cous cous.

Dessert: rare unfortunately and luckily the bakery is just far enough away that I don't go visit everyday. Biscreme is good- a little biscuit with chocolate in the middle, or those fried donuts can make a good treat

peanuts: grown in Senegal and you could walk blindfolded with your hands tied behind your back and you'd still find someone selling peanuts without any effort although you might get hit by a car first. Peanuts come roasted or raw in or out of the shells.

Fruit stands and fruit juice sellers are another favorite. Sometimes we buy bissap or the inside from the baobob fruit and make juice at home which a special treat.

I miss moms cooking and cheese-- cheese is hard to come by

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Pigeons


Ever since I bit into a nasty piece of tendon or connective tissue at a Boston Market while trying to cut my own chicken, I’ve been a little picky when it comes to eating chicken wings. After spending 2 months in Senegal you could say I’ve moved to the other end of the spectrum. When you’re served rice and fish everyday, chicken starts to look really delicious and it’s totally worth scrounging and probing for every last piece of meat. Gone are the days when I complained about having too much chicken from the Hub (my cafeteria). Last night, I went one step further. We had pigeon for dinner – when I saw them for the first time in the kitchen I thought we were eating large rats for dinner. Luckily I was wrong. I thought I was doing a pretty good job taking the meat off my little pigeon when my aunt explained that I could eat the bones. The bones? My uncle chimed in that the bones were tender and rich in iron. I guess my face was still skeptical because she asked me to pass her one of the pigeon skeletons and proceeded to eat the wing. So without thinking about it any longer I ripped the wing off the carcass and chomped down. A little crunchy but I guess I could agree that in comparison with wings from B-Dubs it could be considered tender. A big bite of white baguette helped it go down and to get full marks of approval from my family I even ate the other wing.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Sénégal - Cameroun

The crew from Ouakam - host family and friends
 Attended my first professional football match! It was a HUGE game against Sénégal's rival Cameroun. I went with my family, tickets cost ~$4.
Celebrating the win!
Match starts at 6pm however my day started much earlier - went downtown at 9am with my brother to buy a jersey. We got stopped by the police in Sandaga asking for insurance and registration. My brother was missing on the the 3 documents and so after some discussion paid 6,000 CFA to avoid going to the police station. Left the house to catch a bus to the stadium at noon, an hour behind schedule.
We stand in one of many long winding lines in the parking lot for over 2 hours before moving forward and finally make it into the stadium at 4pm. Luckily there was plenty to entertain -- fans dancing the the beat of the drummers. Vendors coming by with sweat bands, noise makers, water, frozen juice, peanuts and other snacks and the occasional super fan wearing the Senegalese flag as pants for example. The police are pretty forceful and if a crowd starts rushing the entrance, the police are quick to scare everyone away. As the lines start moving foward they get very compact otherwise people try to cut in line -- it ends up looking like a human centipede. Unlike when i attended the wrestling match, they allowed the women to cut the line so they wouldn't have to be squished against some man while standing in line. I'd say 1% of the crowd was female.
I don't really know soccer but I think it was a pretty messy match - not a lot of showing off foot skills and fancy passing but rather rushing the net and finding the most opportunities to score. After 92 minutes with no score, Demba Ba of Senegal scored and the stadium erupted. Screaming and hugging and crying and dancing, lots of dancing. The celebration continued till the end of the match when fans started jumping the balcony onto the field. We stayed in the stands dancing and singing and celebrating until the police kicked us out. Outside the stadium vendors were giving away free coffee and snacks, drummers were on the roofs of vans, giant speakers blaring music and everyone still dancing. This continued on the bus ride as well.
Interesting to see connections between Islam and football. Marabouts (the religious leaders) may give out instructions to fans seeking a win for Senegal - for example you might be told not to greet people by shaking hands the day of the match. One of the cheers for Senegal was a short prayer to Allah asking for a win for Senegal. Allowing women to skip standing in line may have been a mix of safety and Islam - not forcing the women to be squeezed so close to the men standing in line.
Big win for Senegal, lots to celebrate, pictures to come later.

Taiba Niassene

It's amazing how quickly I've become accustomed to Dakar. After spending a week in Taiba, a village 60km south of Kaolak, I was looking forward to some of the amenities I have here. For example, the weather is much more enjoyable, I have my own room, a flushing toilet, a family that speaks french. Ironically the electricity was more reliable in the village but no internet to be found. I learned a new meaning of the word hot -- it's normal to take 3 showers or more per day on account of the heat. Most people don't do anything after lunch during the hottest part of the day -- naps are common or lounging in front of the tv -- sweating profusely is unavoidable with both options.

I arrived in Kaolak on Saturday in time for lunch with four other students. After lunch and a round of ataaya (tea) we were given a short presentation of APROFES, an association that promotes Senegalese women. Some of the services include helping victims of domestic abuse and rape, HIV/AIDS screenings, and causeries - interactive sessions that discuss health problems, pregnancy, domestic abuse, microfinace, agriculture with local women.

Sunday we went out to a HIV/AIDS screening in a poor suburb in Kaolak. It was the first screening organized by two groups of high school students. Local health workers were testing community members for HIV/AIDS. There was a large tent set up with plastic chairs and giant speakers blaring mbalax - traditional Senegalese music. These two student led groups were started by high school students that were unsatisfied with the state of their neighborhood. They take turns patrolling the neighborhood at night to keep it safe, encourage kids to stay in school, promote solidarity and health. It was amazing to talk to them and see how much they were doing of their own initiative. Each member pays 100F a week to support their events but they are searching for partners so they can receive more money. While they emphasized their need for money, they were doing a lot and improving their neighborhood -- all self motivated. It was great to talk to them about what they're doing and see how dedicated they were to improving their neighborhood.

Sunday afternoon I made it to Taiba where I stayed with Faty Niass and her four daughters, her mother and another couple Moustafa and Fatou and their 2 children. I quickly adopted Niass as my last name for the week -- when people ask for your name they always want to know your last name as well. Faty works at the poste de santé - health post. She works in the small pharmacy, there were 2 aids that help bandage wounds, give shots and IVs, and one nurse. The nurse was the only one getting paid, the others work as volunteers and may make some money at the end of each month depending on whether or not the clinic made money or not. Everyone working there are Senegalese and live in the village. There's also a small maternity center down the road with a delivery room and examining room.

During my week, I spent a day and a half at the clinic - in the pharmacy, with the aids and with the nurse. I helped cooked dinner - varieties of rice and fish. I also visited the small factory where they make peanut oil and peanut butter. I spent one morning at the preschool as well. It was stressful at times because very little french was spoken. Unlike Dakar, I had no one to talk to in English to discuss what was going on and reactions but as the week went on I became more accustomed and accepting of my limits with wolof. Now that I'm home I'm making more of an effort to speak wolof more often, I'm going to come back with a Senegalese french accent and a basic knowledge of wolof. It was really helpful to spend the week in Taiba and helped me understand the health system and how important it is to have national health workers in the clinics. I could visit a village and research the prevalence of HIV or forced marriages but I couldn't do awareness campaigns and be effective.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Jangele ma - Teach me

As part of my studies in Dakar this semester I have an internship in Pikine - a low income suburb just outside of Dakar.  Each Friday I work with the organization Village Pilote; a non-profit organization. The director is French but the majority of the staff is Senegalese. Their goal is to place boys that have been living on the streets of Dakar back with their families. Many of the boys have run away from home to escape poverty, broken families or abuse and come not only from all regions of Senegal but also Guinea, Mali, and The Gambia. I work at one of two refuges where the boys up to age ~14 live if they choose to leave their lives on the street. So far I've attended one (long) weekly meeting concerning everything that goes on week to week. Otherwise I'm spending time with the boys at le maraichage; a large plot of land by a swamp where people grow vegetables. The refuge has a small plot and they visit every day to take care of the plants. Afterwords they play rugby, do laundry, shower and have lunch together. While I've worked with kids a lot in the past this is a whole new experience. Language barrier of course, also I'm a toubab (white person) and that probably means I won't be around very long. My last visit was exciting because more of the boys were happy to see and came to greet me. I had longer conversations of broken wolof and french with them and they brought books to me so we could look at the pictures and talk about them. The youngest boy, about 4 yrs old, came up to me with a book and said "Jangele ma" which means teach me. It really touched me because he's too young to be living at the refuge, he's lost and they have tried to find his parents through the tv and radio but no results. He needs a family.
There's so many kids on the street, the longer I'm here the harder it is to see them on the street. This problem needs to be solved on so many levels, Village Pilote works here in Dakar while other programs address issues in the villages. I try to think about my role and how I can contribute to such a large problem, not just kids on the street but health issues -- something I saw during my rural visit. I'm definitely still interested in public health and learning how to design effective programs. I'm currently working on a proposal to study in Senegal during the summer - focus on the health system here in Senegal and another area of focus - women and health - power relations and effect on health/access to health care, effect of cultural globalization on health care, or the effects and reactions to Christian missionaries (as many set up health systems). This proposal is due April 1st so I'm back to work. If you have any comments let me know! And if you want to check out Village Pilote the website is villagepilote.org and I beleive theres an option to switch the language to English.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Strikes

I'm sitting in the student lounge, classes canceled today on account of a strike by students. The students have wanted improvements made to the dorms and classrooms -- they padlocked the entrances. Luckily, they opened a small gate for us to get through while still blocking vehicle traffic. Down the road at the public university, professors have been on strike for at least two weeks. Conditions are worse at the public university, during class students completely fill the auditorium and some stand outside to listen through the window. Each dorm room may have 7 students living there. I'm very lucky to have access to the education I have and when I start to complain about homework or waking up early, I remind myself how blessed I am.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Traditional Clothes and Car Rapides

My traditional Sénégalese outfit


Walking to school- colorful vans are Car Rapides
As some may noticed I switched the language to english, hope that helps. In other news I have found an internet café near my house in Wakam. When I say internet café I mean a small room with old computers and one empty desk where I sit, no bakery with sweet goodies or delicious cappuccinos but it's only costing me 250F per hour ~50 cents.
One of my older sisters is a tailor and recently made this outfit for me, I wore it to my internship on Friday and everyone was so excited to see me, a toubab (name for a white person) in a traditional outfit. Its actually more flattering than I expected it to be however its not the easiest to move around in especially walking through the sand which is a common occurance. But it definitely sparked more attention than my western clothing and I'd like to invest in more pagnes (the wrap on bottom).
I've thought about what I'm going to wear more here than I ever do at DePauw. I definitely miss my sweat pants and tennis shoes attire, it seems everyone dresses up here for class and I even see women walking to work in heels, which I can tell you is extremely difficult on the roads here.

If anyone has wondered why I've been MIA-- I have no internet connection at home and I lose power at least 5 times a week rendering the internet cafés useless. I can get internet at school but the computer lab is usually taken for classes plus I'm lazy and don't always like to carry my laptop to campus. But I'll admit I'm getting a little homesick and please please if you read this leave a comment on the blog, tell me what you're doing, email me your address and I might even send you a postcard!

The second pictures illustrates the construction zone on my way to school. Be sure to walk upwind of the men spraying tar or you'll get hit. There's no barriers so you just have to navigate the machinery, gaping holes, and traffic on your own. The colorful vans are Car Rapides. They stop to pick up and drop off anywhere -- just wave your hand to get on or knock on the side of the car to signal you want to get off. At rush hour they're completely full -- no personal space but its a nice alternative to the bus. Don't drop any change because it might fall through a hole in the floor.  Cost: 75F (<20 cents) to get home from school ~ 20min depending on traffic. I take the bus in the morning since it conveniently stops right outside my front door.

Plans for tonight, who knows. Not unlike being at school, making plans with people is not the easiest. I definitely miss having roommates like Chin around ready to eat, workout, go out together. It gets cold at night, I could really use that Christmas blanket Goff always wraps up in and some impromptu pancakes with Katie and Ellie or watching season of Friends with Heidi would be really comforting.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

A little slow on the uptake

Welcome to my blog, first post since arriving in Dakar on January 16. So it took quite a while but I'm excited to share some of my experiences and hopefully hear from you too.

Basics:
I'm in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa. Spending a semester through CIEE studying at Suffolk University Dakar Campus. I live with a host family in Ouakam, a 45min walk from school so for the first time in my life I rely on public transportation. No longer can I walk back to my apartment or dorm room on campus between classes, take a nap, and wake up 10 minutes before class starts... but there are definitely perks. One of which is the food. I could fill a hole post about the food here, which i probably will later, but for now all I can say is that I'm tearing myself away from the blog so i can catch the next bus home to eat lunch around the bowl with my family.
More to come later if the power doesn't go out tonight!