Sunday, March 27, 2011

Sénégal - Cameroun

The crew from Ouakam - host family and friends
 Attended my first professional football match! It was a HUGE game against Sénégal's rival Cameroun. I went with my family, tickets cost ~$4.
Celebrating the win!
Match starts at 6pm however my day started much earlier - went downtown at 9am with my brother to buy a jersey. We got stopped by the police in Sandaga asking for insurance and registration. My brother was missing on the the 3 documents and so after some discussion paid 6,000 CFA to avoid going to the police station. Left the house to catch a bus to the stadium at noon, an hour behind schedule.
We stand in one of many long winding lines in the parking lot for over 2 hours before moving forward and finally make it into the stadium at 4pm. Luckily there was plenty to entertain -- fans dancing the the beat of the drummers. Vendors coming by with sweat bands, noise makers, water, frozen juice, peanuts and other snacks and the occasional super fan wearing the Senegalese flag as pants for example. The police are pretty forceful and if a crowd starts rushing the entrance, the police are quick to scare everyone away. As the lines start moving foward they get very compact otherwise people try to cut in line -- it ends up looking like a human centipede. Unlike when i attended the wrestling match, they allowed the women to cut the line so they wouldn't have to be squished against some man while standing in line. I'd say 1% of the crowd was female.
I don't really know soccer but I think it was a pretty messy match - not a lot of showing off foot skills and fancy passing but rather rushing the net and finding the most opportunities to score. After 92 minutes with no score, Demba Ba of Senegal scored and the stadium erupted. Screaming and hugging and crying and dancing, lots of dancing. The celebration continued till the end of the match when fans started jumping the balcony onto the field. We stayed in the stands dancing and singing and celebrating until the police kicked us out. Outside the stadium vendors were giving away free coffee and snacks, drummers were on the roofs of vans, giant speakers blaring music and everyone still dancing. This continued on the bus ride as well.
Interesting to see connections between Islam and football. Marabouts (the religious leaders) may give out instructions to fans seeking a win for Senegal - for example you might be told not to greet people by shaking hands the day of the match. One of the cheers for Senegal was a short prayer to Allah asking for a win for Senegal. Allowing women to skip standing in line may have been a mix of safety and Islam - not forcing the women to be squeezed so close to the men standing in line.
Big win for Senegal, lots to celebrate, pictures to come later.

Taiba Niassene

It's amazing how quickly I've become accustomed to Dakar. After spending a week in Taiba, a village 60km south of Kaolak, I was looking forward to some of the amenities I have here. For example, the weather is much more enjoyable, I have my own room, a flushing toilet, a family that speaks french. Ironically the electricity was more reliable in the village but no internet to be found. I learned a new meaning of the word hot -- it's normal to take 3 showers or more per day on account of the heat. Most people don't do anything after lunch during the hottest part of the day -- naps are common or lounging in front of the tv -- sweating profusely is unavoidable with both options.

I arrived in Kaolak on Saturday in time for lunch with four other students. After lunch and a round of ataaya (tea) we were given a short presentation of APROFES, an association that promotes Senegalese women. Some of the services include helping victims of domestic abuse and rape, HIV/AIDS screenings, and causeries - interactive sessions that discuss health problems, pregnancy, domestic abuse, microfinace, agriculture with local women.

Sunday we went out to a HIV/AIDS screening in a poor suburb in Kaolak. It was the first screening organized by two groups of high school students. Local health workers were testing community members for HIV/AIDS. There was a large tent set up with plastic chairs and giant speakers blaring mbalax - traditional Senegalese music. These two student led groups were started by high school students that were unsatisfied with the state of their neighborhood. They take turns patrolling the neighborhood at night to keep it safe, encourage kids to stay in school, promote solidarity and health. It was amazing to talk to them and see how much they were doing of their own initiative. Each member pays 100F a week to support their events but they are searching for partners so they can receive more money. While they emphasized their need for money, they were doing a lot and improving their neighborhood -- all self motivated. It was great to talk to them about what they're doing and see how dedicated they were to improving their neighborhood.

Sunday afternoon I made it to Taiba where I stayed with Faty Niass and her four daughters, her mother and another couple Moustafa and Fatou and their 2 children. I quickly adopted Niass as my last name for the week -- when people ask for your name they always want to know your last name as well. Faty works at the poste de santé - health post. She works in the small pharmacy, there were 2 aids that help bandage wounds, give shots and IVs, and one nurse. The nurse was the only one getting paid, the others work as volunteers and may make some money at the end of each month depending on whether or not the clinic made money or not. Everyone working there are Senegalese and live in the village. There's also a small maternity center down the road with a delivery room and examining room.

During my week, I spent a day and a half at the clinic - in the pharmacy, with the aids and with the nurse. I helped cooked dinner - varieties of rice and fish. I also visited the small factory where they make peanut oil and peanut butter. I spent one morning at the preschool as well. It was stressful at times because very little french was spoken. Unlike Dakar, I had no one to talk to in English to discuss what was going on and reactions but as the week went on I became more accustomed and accepting of my limits with wolof. Now that I'm home I'm making more of an effort to speak wolof more often, I'm going to come back with a Senegalese french accent and a basic knowledge of wolof. It was really helpful to spend the week in Taiba and helped me understand the health system and how important it is to have national health workers in the clinics. I could visit a village and research the prevalence of HIV or forced marriages but I couldn't do awareness campaigns and be effective.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Jangele ma - Teach me

As part of my studies in Dakar this semester I have an internship in Pikine - a low income suburb just outside of Dakar.  Each Friday I work with the organization Village Pilote; a non-profit organization. The director is French but the majority of the staff is Senegalese. Their goal is to place boys that have been living on the streets of Dakar back with their families. Many of the boys have run away from home to escape poverty, broken families or abuse and come not only from all regions of Senegal but also Guinea, Mali, and The Gambia. I work at one of two refuges where the boys up to age ~14 live if they choose to leave their lives on the street. So far I've attended one (long) weekly meeting concerning everything that goes on week to week. Otherwise I'm spending time with the boys at le maraichage; a large plot of land by a swamp where people grow vegetables. The refuge has a small plot and they visit every day to take care of the plants. Afterwords they play rugby, do laundry, shower and have lunch together. While I've worked with kids a lot in the past this is a whole new experience. Language barrier of course, also I'm a toubab (white person) and that probably means I won't be around very long. My last visit was exciting because more of the boys were happy to see and came to greet me. I had longer conversations of broken wolof and french with them and they brought books to me so we could look at the pictures and talk about them. The youngest boy, about 4 yrs old, came up to me with a book and said "Jangele ma" which means teach me. It really touched me because he's too young to be living at the refuge, he's lost and they have tried to find his parents through the tv and radio but no results. He needs a family.
There's so many kids on the street, the longer I'm here the harder it is to see them on the street. This problem needs to be solved on so many levels, Village Pilote works here in Dakar while other programs address issues in the villages. I try to think about my role and how I can contribute to such a large problem, not just kids on the street but health issues -- something I saw during my rural visit. I'm definitely still interested in public health and learning how to design effective programs. I'm currently working on a proposal to study in Senegal during the summer - focus on the health system here in Senegal and another area of focus - women and health - power relations and effect on health/access to health care, effect of cultural globalization on health care, or the effects and reactions to Christian missionaries (as many set up health systems). This proposal is due April 1st so I'm back to work. If you have any comments let me know! And if you want to check out Village Pilote the website is villagepilote.org and I beleive theres an option to switch the language to English.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Strikes

I'm sitting in the student lounge, classes canceled today on account of a strike by students. The students have wanted improvements made to the dorms and classrooms -- they padlocked the entrances. Luckily, they opened a small gate for us to get through while still blocking vehicle traffic. Down the road at the public university, professors have been on strike for at least two weeks. Conditions are worse at the public university, during class students completely fill the auditorium and some stand outside to listen through the window. Each dorm room may have 7 students living there. I'm very lucky to have access to the education I have and when I start to complain about homework or waking up early, I remind myself how blessed I am.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Traditional Clothes and Car Rapides

My traditional Sénégalese outfit


Walking to school- colorful vans are Car Rapides
As some may noticed I switched the language to english, hope that helps. In other news I have found an internet café near my house in Wakam. When I say internet café I mean a small room with old computers and one empty desk where I sit, no bakery with sweet goodies or delicious cappuccinos but it's only costing me 250F per hour ~50 cents.
One of my older sisters is a tailor and recently made this outfit for me, I wore it to my internship on Friday and everyone was so excited to see me, a toubab (name for a white person) in a traditional outfit. Its actually more flattering than I expected it to be however its not the easiest to move around in especially walking through the sand which is a common occurance. But it definitely sparked more attention than my western clothing and I'd like to invest in more pagnes (the wrap on bottom).
I've thought about what I'm going to wear more here than I ever do at DePauw. I definitely miss my sweat pants and tennis shoes attire, it seems everyone dresses up here for class and I even see women walking to work in heels, which I can tell you is extremely difficult on the roads here.

If anyone has wondered why I've been MIA-- I have no internet connection at home and I lose power at least 5 times a week rendering the internet cafés useless. I can get internet at school but the computer lab is usually taken for classes plus I'm lazy and don't always like to carry my laptop to campus. But I'll admit I'm getting a little homesick and please please if you read this leave a comment on the blog, tell me what you're doing, email me your address and I might even send you a postcard!

The second pictures illustrates the construction zone on my way to school. Be sure to walk upwind of the men spraying tar or you'll get hit. There's no barriers so you just have to navigate the machinery, gaping holes, and traffic on your own. The colorful vans are Car Rapides. They stop to pick up and drop off anywhere -- just wave your hand to get on or knock on the side of the car to signal you want to get off. At rush hour they're completely full -- no personal space but its a nice alternative to the bus. Don't drop any change because it might fall through a hole in the floor.  Cost: 75F (<20 cents) to get home from school ~ 20min depending on traffic. I take the bus in the morning since it conveniently stops right outside my front door.

Plans for tonight, who knows. Not unlike being at school, making plans with people is not the easiest. I definitely miss having roommates like Chin around ready to eat, workout, go out together. It gets cold at night, I could really use that Christmas blanket Goff always wraps up in and some impromptu pancakes with Katie and Ellie or watching season of Friends with Heidi would be really comforting.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

A little slow on the uptake

Welcome to my blog, first post since arriving in Dakar on January 16. So it took quite a while but I'm excited to share some of my experiences and hopefully hear from you too.

Basics:
I'm in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa. Spending a semester through CIEE studying at Suffolk University Dakar Campus. I live with a host family in Ouakam, a 45min walk from school so for the first time in my life I rely on public transportation. No longer can I walk back to my apartment or dorm room on campus between classes, take a nap, and wake up 10 minutes before class starts... but there are definitely perks. One of which is the food. I could fill a hole post about the food here, which i probably will later, but for now all I can say is that I'm tearing myself away from the blog so i can catch the next bus home to eat lunch around the bowl with my family.
More to come later if the power doesn't go out tonight!