Mar Lodj

Was lucky enough to spend my weekend on a small island called Mar Lodj in the Sine Saloum Delta where the Saloum river meets the Atlantic ocean. The entire program traveled by bus to Ndangane where we took pirogues to the island of Mar Lodj. We were greeted by a French couple and quickly settled into our bungalows. All of our meals were delicious with fresh fish and shrimp caught just nearby our campement. Hammocks and a sandy beach were more than enough to encourage some genuine R&R.

Friday night we took a pirogue tour through the mangroves. The mangroves have been depleted since they’ve been used as fuel for cooking but there are several initiatives led by women’s groups to replant the mangroves. We saw quite a few species of birds at their nesting sight and some giant pelicans.  We returned home with the sun setting behind us and a three-course meal ahead. Fresh tomatoes and tapalapa – a heartier bread than the plain baguettes we’re used to, followed by cous-cous and chocolate cake to follow. Being used to simple meals in Dakar, the variety offered to us here was almost as wonderful as falling asleep in a hammock reading a good book.

Saturday morning I woke early to take a run across the island. I had a staring contest with a few cattle as they stood directly in our path. The ground was dry and cracked under my feet and the crisp wind greeted us as we doubled back. The landscape was much preferable to that of Dakar where I breathe in pollution and my land markers are buildings instead of a giant baobob tree. After breakfast the whole group – 52 students - took horse drawn carts around the island for a tour. It felt slightly uncomfortable and overly touristy to drive through villages on the carts. We took a brief stop to see the church and walk through a few streets but I much preferred the tour outside of the villages seeing the vast fields of sand spotted with trees and herds of cattle. I wondered how much the dry landscape must change during the rainy season. 

I filled my afternoon with some Frisbee, swimming and reading. After dinner was the main event, a wrestling match in the village nearby. They set up tarps in a big circle for crowd control and the ring was quickly filled with supporters. A group of drummers kept the rhythm and large speakers ensured everyone could hear the singer. There are many rituals surrounding wrestling and the whole ring was filled with wrestlers and their crewmembers warming up, drawing figures in the sand, and pouring specially prepared concoctions on themselves or around the rink. As opposed to the ring in the stadium in Dakar, which was neatly partitioned, this ring ended where the crowd began. The match was set up tournament style, single elimination and 2 or 3 pairs of wrestlers could be competing at a time. Before the semi finals, we were offered the chance to lutte (wrestle) each other. They helped us wrap the pagne properly and we paired off. I have had the chance to lutte against the kids that live next door and their tips helped me win the match against my opponents. It was really fun to watch some of the guys wrestle each other and realize how much more exciting the lutte would be if we new the wrestlers. The lutte is really popular in this region and they will quickly boast that unlike the lutte in Dakar, which can include some punching, this is authentic wrestling. It is the main form of entertainment and a tournament like this is held each month in a different village in the area.

On the way back to Dakar Sunday morning we stopped a large baobob, big enough to crawl inside. Outside the tree, vendors clamored for your attention while inside, bats fought for space to cling to the underbelly of the giant tree. Amazing but didn’t feel inclined to stay inside for too long.